Isla Isabela

Our next stop on the mainland side was Isla Isabela National Park. What a highlight! 

The anchorage is exposed to large swells and full of anchor-snagging rocks, and it's "just birds", so most people pass it by--but it is an astounding place! (A mini-Galapagos, without all the tourists.) It's home to a frigate colony, one of the few that exist in the Pacific basin. With a wingspan of 7', the birds are graceful gliders  with notably jagged silhouettes in the sky. We were incredibly lucky to visit at mating season, when the males inflate their red neck sacks and thump them with their bills to attract females; the result is a loud knocking sound, similar to woodpeckers. The short nesting trees are full--FULL--of the huge birds.

And the boobies! Blue-footed boobies were all over as well. They were at egg-laying stage, but they don't build nests; they just lay their eggs on the ground (sand, underbrush, rocks; apparently they aren't picky). Their beady eyes and  bright blue feet were mesmerizing, and it was charming to see the mated pairs touching beaks together.

Last but not least, there were quite a few iguanas. The many small species of lizards would skitter away, but as the alpha reptiles, the iguanas were fearless. When I was watching some boobies, one of them even came up and licked my toe! 

The island is very small and we were the only ones on the trail; we had the entire wondrous ecosystem to ourselves. Back at the boat, humpbacks were regularly in view: too far away to photograph, but close enough to be a near-constant entertainment. It was a magnificent world, and we felt awed and privileged to have experienced it.

Birds were overhead all the time

A male frigate with neck sack inflated

Frigates nesting in the short trees

Only one fluffy white chick (literally the early bird?)

A mated pair of blue-footed boobies

Can you see those beady eyes?

Note the beak nuzzling (and one boobie has its foot raised--a common behavior--so it looks like they are dancing!)

Caring for the eggs (just on the ground, not in a nest)

Boobies everywhere! (no comments, please)

An iguana checking out our lunch

Mazatlan

In making our way from La Paz to Puerto Vallarta, we debated whether or not to visit Mazatlan, and were glad we did. It was time for a marina stop anyway--some projects required internet access and/or more extensive use of the AC power that docks provide--and Marina Mazatlan served our needs well for a few days. (As one of the sailors there said, "Cruising is just going to the next location to work on your boat.")

I had the easy job: hours online researching requirements and downloading entry forms for the next 5 countries. Art had the poop job, literally (if you're so inclined, you may replace 'poop' with a more emphatic four-letter word). The plumbing in the forward head has never worked well; with more people coming aboard who need to use it and the desire to finally rid the boat of a lingering odor, it was time to re-plumb the entire mess. Mercifully, I didn't take pictures of the carnage, but I will say removing lots of convoluted hoses full of ancient clogged you-know-what was as disgusting as you can possibly imagine. (Hint: Art turned his first set of work clothes into rags and worked in his skivvies the rest of the time.) Now the plumbing is all new and greatly simplified, and the aroma (ahem) is abating; the final step--installing a macerator pump--will wait for the next marina.

We did spend a full day exploring Mazatlan, and we found it to be very enjoyable. We weren't interested in the Zona Dorada (Gold Zone, a long stretch of nice hotels and restaurants along the fantastic Pacific beaches). Instead, we used their excellent bus system and headed downtown. We checked out their huge municipal market, which offered anything one could want (yes! I finally found a tortilla press, so I can make corn tortillas on the boat!). The central plaza was well-kept and had a jungle atmosphere: huge trees, coconut palms, bright flowers, melodious bird songs. Across the street was the cathedral, and it was magnificent. Even just standing respectfully at the entrance, we were moved by the palpable devotion of the people who entered for private worship (noting that most of them were primarily drawn to the shrine of Mary).

Along the seaside stretched a long malecon (wide strolling sidewalk) with several impressive monuments and hourly feats of daring by cliff divers. Through fortunate coincidence, we were in town for the First Friday Art Walk (many cities have these; Mazatlan does feel like a real city). We spent hours admiring the niche galleries, many of which had inner courtyards full of plants with huge leaves and thick vines (their own interior jungle!). The Central Historic District has block after block of beautiful 1840's buildings, housing those galleries as well as esoteric bars and small elegant restaurants.

Our best time in Mazatlan was coming across the Cultural Institute. Kids were entering the building with violin & cello cases (a heartwarming sight for an orchestra teacher!)--but what stopped us in our tracks were a few notes of Brahms. A professional group was rehearsing the Horn Trio; we glued ourselves to the grated window to listen, deeply moved by the sound of our favorite language...

Central Plaza

Historic District

Inside the cathedral

Cathedral

A monument along the malecon

Municipal market

Preparing for Carnaval (a very big deal here!)

Why on earth is this man smiling?! Surely playing with filthy hoses can't be as fun as it looks!
(and sorry, I couldn't get this one to load correctly...)

Crossing the Sea of Cortez

Called "The Crossing" in local lingo, many cruisers travel between the mainland and the Baja peninsula. Either direction and at any time of year, though, it is not a small undertaking. Like everyone else, we watched the weather carefully on grib files and listened to Gaery, the Baja weather guru, on the ham radio net before we took the 3-day plunge.

Our crossing was largely uneventful: no big winds (and at a crucial time, no wind at all), no fish hungry enough to grab our lure, no boats in sight. It would have been completely uneventful if some coupling bolts between the V-drive and the propeller shaft hadn't sheared off! Fortunately Art is a good mechanic and he had some bolts with the correct thread, so after a five hour operation--all while rolling in large waves--we were back underway. The motto "Be Prepared" sure gets tested out here...

A new experience was watching both Venus and the full moon set in the west. At different times (of course), each of them got larger and redder as they approached the horizon. Venus ended up looking like a coal, and the moon looked like the setting sun, but without the glowing radiance (a tired sun, perhaps?). As we approached the mainland shore, we began passing many sea turtles swimming on the surface. As always, treats abound!

Venus over the Sea of Cortez

Setting moon

Sea turtle floating in the Sea of Cortez

Adios, Baja

Let's start this entry with a short quiz.

You have been periodically checking the location of Second Wind online and notice that the boat hasn't changed anchorages for several days. The reason for this is:    

              a) Art & Nancie like that anchorage so much they don't want to leave
              b) There was a major breakdown and they can't leave until it's fixed
              c) Weather conditions are making travel unsafe and/or uncomfortable
              d) Any of the above could be true

The correct answer is D.

Though it was time to leave La Paz, we weren't quite ready to leave Baja. There were still some anchorages we wanted to explore, and explore them we did. Our itinerary was curtailed by two consecutive so-called "wind events", each with 4 days of strong northerly winds. Most of our time was spent in protected anchorages within 45 miles of La Paz, along with several other boats also hiding out in those bays (in this case, C was the best answer).  We did some hiking and beachcombing, and it was a treat to be immersed in desert anchorages again. The colorful striated cliffs, sculpted red rocks and green varieties of cactus were lovely by day, and Venus was especially glorious every evening.

The best part about not traveling was getting some significant projects completed. It felt great to get a lot of work done, with no marina fees and in a beautiful setting. Score!

En route between two islands, we stopped at Los Islotes--some outlying rocks that house a sea lion colony. These particular sea lions are accustomed to people; "swimming with the sea lions" is promoted by divers in La Paz. So one morning I tugged on Art's wetsuit and swam into sea lion territory--and before long I was greeted by playful pups who swirled and darted around me. I sure hope they could hear me laughing through the snorkel! Art manned the boat, as it was very near the rocks, and the surface show--sea lions playing with each other, even doing flips & rolls & leaps--was equally joyful. My, we are fortunate...

The other highlight was a dinghy river trip--or a river of sorts, since it was a long tidal stream into a large lagoon that was very wide and had strong currents. Canals meandered off the main stream as it flowed through a huge mangrove forest, and herons and egrets were plentiful. Once again we were all alone in a beautiful place; it felt magical!

Venus at the Caleta Partida anchorage,
Isla Espiritu Santo

Sea lions at Los Islotes

Rocks on a beach at Isla San Francisco

Isla San Francisco has pink beaches...

...and red and green beaches!

Hiking at Isla San Francisco

Did you ever see a scenic photograph 
and want to go to that place? We did--and we did! 
Here is the cover of Shawn Breeding & 
Heather Bansmer's wonderful guide to the Sea of Cortez...

...and here is Second Wind in that same anchorage!

Dinghy river trip

Mangroves by the lagoon at Bahia Amortajada 

Return trip up the tidal river

Venus over the Sierra de la Gigante

The Not-So-Fun Parts

To be clear: what follows is not a litany of complaints. But lest anyone think this is all fun & games, an extensive vacation in increasingly exotic locales, perhaps we should write a little about the sideshows to the main event. Skip to the next entry if you just want the pretty pictures.

Even new boats have issues, and for older boats like ours, there's no question things are going to wear out/break. And with all boats, the constant motion--some of it pretty rough--is bound to cause problems. (Imagine what would happen to your house if it were constantly being tossed around in salt water.) Though boats are designed for this, it doesn't mean they don't need frequent monitoring and maintenance. That's why the dock mantra is "That's boat life!" (Translation: something is always going wrong!)

There's also always at least a slight undercurrent of concern: continuous vigilance isn't pessimistic, it's necessary. (This, of course, applies to weather as well; homeowners on land aren't always watching the weather, in case they need to relocate their house for safety reasons.) Add to that the never-ending list of things that need repair ("cross one thing off the list and add two more" is another dock mantra, and the result is a lot of time in paradise being spent in work clothes.

Here's a photo gallery of just a few of the recent projects:

Though all Nordic owners agree this is a great boat, there's a design flaw that allows water into the V-berth floor when large waves wash over the bow. Art employed an array of tactics to combat this, from caulking & weatherstripping on the outside to fabricating plugs for various places inside...          

...and here he's installing a hose to allow for pumping any accumulated seawater out of the anchor chain locker.

Air in the lines prevented the new watermaker from working properly; Art re-routed the plumbing so it pulled in seawater from a different through-hull (hole in the boat). The next false starts were just priming issues, so now--voila!--we have an onboard source of fresh water! In this photo he's sopping up seawater that came through the hole and into the engine room during this operation. Update: after four successful uses of the watermaker, the booster pump failed. So we crossed 'watermaker' off the list and then had to add 'purchase and install a new water pump'...eeesh!! 

No, this is not the same picture. (Art spends a lot of time
in the engine room.) This is the 'dig out parts of broken bolts and
replace them with new ones' operation.

Deja vu all over again...here he's jury-rigging--with
creative use of plastic bottles--a radiator overflow container.

For some mysterious reason, our VHF and SSB radios (which are not connected to each other) and our Nexus gauges all stopped displaying GPS coordinates on their screens. Art traced cables and wires through crevices and under ceilings to diagnose potential problems (here he's inspecting the main circuit board). Between his investigations and my systems programming, all the screens are now working properly. 

The starboard water tank sprang a leak; yipes! At least it happened in La Paz, where we could find help wrestling the 75-gallon monster in & out of the boat and a good welding shop that could complete a solid repair. 

You'll notice Art was the main character in all these photos. Since I'm not an engineer, I do the other stuff: accounting, business (e.g. insurance, documentation, etc.), provisioning, meal planning, cooking, itinerary (including research on visas, ports, anchorages, activities ashore), routing, navigation, weather, and SSB radio. I'm checking grib files (weather reports) in this photo; that info is received via a 3-way dance between my computer, 

the SSB radio and a modem.