Big Fish! Big Waves!

What a passage this was! The trip from New Caledonia to New Zealand normally takes 7-8 days; it took us 14.

High points were catching the biggest mahimahi we've ever seen, and watching the night sky evolve (favorite image this time: an infant moon appearing faintly on the horizon, then slipping into the sea).

Low points were having the V-drive break not long into the trip. No V-drive = no transmission = no motorsailing in light winds = ending up in the wrong place at the wrong time. We spent a couple days wallowing in the waves with no wind, gradually drifting away from our destination (not unlike "the olden days" of sailing) and others going slowly forward--though not fast enough to make landfall before a storm front hit us.

track of Second Wind while drifting

It started with hard rain and 35-45 knot winds whipping up the sea into a frenzy, for which Second Wind and we were well prepared. There's not much that can be done to protect a boat from lightning, however, so we were relieved there was none...until, "Oh look! Lightning!": a fireworks display appeared overhead. (Since you're reading this, obviously we did not get hit.) The storm lasted for several hours, but it was the following two days of continued strong winds and tumultuous seas that were the real obstacles. We had to heave to twice (arrange the sails so we intentionally didn't go anywhere, giving us a chance for some desperately needed rest). Once underway again, the waves made progress excruciatingly slow. By the time we arrived in Opua for Customs check-in, almost a week after expected, we had to completely rework logistics and leave Second Wind near Opua for our long absence, rather than in our home base of Whangarei. Ah, the best laid plans...

The staff photographer was otherwise occupied during the storm,
so this photo of  post-gale water over the bow will have to suffice.
(Just add darkness, rain, lightning, and 16-18' waves to this picture.)

Boisterous waves next to small boat; these are only about 12'

It was a stressful voyage but never a fearsome one. We learned a lot, especially about the strengths of our boat and ourselves, and ended up with quite an adventure under our belts (or lifejackets!).

But home never sounded so good. Where are those ruby slippers when you need them?

Friends and family, thank you for sharing this journey with us so far. I'll probably post a few photos of our time on US soil, but we know you're primarily interested in tales from the South Pacific. Those will resume approximately next March--stay tuned!

Standing by,

Vagabond Art

Sea Gypsy Nancie

New Caledonia

Our passage from Vanuatu to New Caledonia was one of our best ever, with glorious sailing the entire route. New Cal itself looked different than we expected: the tall columnar pines made famous by the "Isle of Pines" (which we did not visit) are actually found throughout the islands, and red earth predominates on and around Grande Terre, the huge main island. It possesses a strikingly different kind of beauty, more reminiscent of Mexico's Sea of Cortez than the South Pacific.

A cluster of tall pines on the island of Mare'

Red earth on Grande Terre

There's not much to share about New Cal since we were there for such a short time and had little opportunity to explore. Like French Polynesia, New Caledonia is administered by France, and we did appreciate some croissants and a lovely market. Most enjoyable was the Museum of New Caledonia, with its marvelous displays of Kanak culture--particularly wood carvings and their unique style of huts.

Which is scariest?

Beautiful carvings and symbolism

Having quoted Paul Simon in the last post, it's appropriate to do so again, starting with

"I get all the news I need on the weather report".

We joined the other cruisers at Port Moselle Marina's wifi area, obsessing about passage weather: when to make the leap to Australia/New Zealand. We're headed to New Zealand, our home away from home, then on the United States, home for the holidays.

As Paul sang, "Homeward Bound..."