Friday, June 9, 2017

VANUATU: Tanna



Being captivated by Tanna last October was one of the main reasons we wanted to return to Vanuatu and spend more time in this fascinating country. Unlike Aneityum, Tanna’s villages are almost completely undeveloped. There is no electricity, all homes are thatched, and all boats are dugout canoes. Our strongest memories of Tanna will be men in canoes, constantly plying the bay for fish; steam vents, associated with the active volcano very nearby; and best of all, the overtly friendly people.

Many photos of the village and the volcano are in a blog post from October 2016, but I can’t resist adding more images…

Tom, pictured above, rowed up not long after we anchored and asked if we could charge his cell phone. Cell phone?! There’s not any service here! It turns out that several people have phones, which they use for taking pictures and movies. (They can call friends and relatives if they take a long and very bumpy truck ride across the island to Lenakel, Tanna’s main town.)

Trading is the norm in Vanuatu,
though we were more than happy to charge his phone for nothing.
Tom traded two of his mackerel for the service. Made for a tasty dinner!


This steam vent along the water's edge is used for cooking--there are plantains and cassava in the pool--
and laundry. It's so hot that one must be careful not to get burned.

Sela cooking food;
note the men in dugout canoes in the background
The results were excellent!

Papaya trees along the trail to...

...this large steam vent

Steam vent with extraneous characters in front
On the way back from the vent,
our guide Willy took us to an area of naturally colored clay...

...which was, and still is,
used as body paint in ceremonies


A typical home,


and a woman walking on the main path between villages


Men fishing,


and women scrubbing pots



Carved statues along the path to the main village in the area


Leah's restaurant by day,



and by night
She made a delicious meal from all local ingredients (eggs, vegetables and fruits). With no electricity, the light was from a solar-powered lamp, which ran out of juice by the end of the meal. But who needs light to sit around and chat?




Food is plentiful. Gardens are well tended...


and paths well groomed



As with our last visit, we brought our instruments ashore one day and played in the 3 closest villages. This extended family was incredibly enthusiastic, laughing and clapping rhythms along with our songs.We also learned the Vanuatu national anthem this year; we start with that, and most people sing along—often an emotional experience.
What a joy to share music so intimately!




We shared an instrument as well as music. Art’s arthritis is worsening and he can no longer play our guitar (thank goodness his beautiful ukulele is less stressful for his hands). Guitars are the main instrument in Vanuatu music and one village didn’t have a guitar, so we decided ours should have a new home.




Art loves playing frisbee with the kids
(and we always leave the frisbee with them when we go)


To trade for the music and the frisbee,
these kids gathered a bunch of fruits and veggies for us

We'll eat very well for quite a while!



We traded a bag of rice for these bananas from one of the men in the dugout canoes



As we were sailing away from Tanna, Mt. Yasur came into view

An extraordinary place! We are already glad we chose to return and immerse ourselves in Vanuatu’s lands and cultures.



After a short stop in Port Vila, where the 3 recent blogs can be posted, we will be island hopping for quite a while. It’s unlikely any of these places will have internet access, so the next photos may take longer to appear…

Thursday, June 8, 2017

VANUATU: Aneityum

Sometimes it still seems magical that with a couple of dacron triangles on a hull, we cross oceans...



After eight days at sea, we made landfall at Aneityum (Anatom on French charts), Vanuatu’s southernmost island. It felt like...another South Pacific island: palm trees, warm breezes, the constant roar of surf on nearby reefs. It didn’t feel like home, because it isn’t, but it did feel deeply familiar and very comfortable to be back in this part of the world.


Postcards from Aneityum:

Second Wind, a local boat,
a local man, a sailor
(behind the camera)

Paths between parts of the village
The best-stocked store we've seen anywhere

Boys with their individually decorated toy boats...



...and playing with their boats in the creek




Meanwhile, girls take care of the younger children
while their mothers are cooking and cleaning

A traditional home along the creek

Community message board under a banyan tree

Remains of an old mission
Cannibalism was common throughout Vanuatu,
and several missionaries were killed and eaten


Note how well groomed the pathways are

The local primary school
This village also hosts a large secondary school;
secondary education is not required, and students from far villages--and even other islands--
pay to board at them

Ben, the principal, was glad to have us play for the children

They had never heard a violin before and were a delightful (and delighted) audience


We were delighted as well, given pamplemousse (large grapefruit, one of our favorites)
as thanks for our little performance

Cruise ships stop at this particular bay about once a week, which unquestionably impacts the village. When we visited the chief to pay our respects, he said that the ships “are both good and bad, like anything”. Though most passengers only visit an islet in the bay dubbed “Mystery Island” to sit on the beach and purchase locally made handicrafts, the village is relatively well off: the schools and store are well supplied, there are several newer style buildings and even some electrical lighting. (The steps in the foreground assist the disembarking passengers who choose to visit the village itself.)


These boats are used for fishing most of the time,
but also ferry cruise ship passengers to the reef for snorkeling,
and transport villagers to Mystery Island for the handicraft market

Sunset from our cockpit


Next stop: Tanna Island, about 50 miles to the north. Meet you there!

Tropics Bound



Departure clearance forms filed? Check.
Water and fuel tanks topped off? Check.
Final provisions stowed? Check.
Gear stashed and lashed? Check.

Ready. Set. Set. Set. Set. Set. Set. Set. Set. Set. Set. Set. Set. Set. Set. Set. Set. Set. Set. Set. Set. Set. Set. Set.
GO!

No, that’s not a typo.
Yes, we (and about 70 other vessels in and around Opua) waited over 3 weeks in New Zealand for a weather window to head north. First a tropical depression turned into Tropical Cyclone Donna, then along came TC Ella—both appearing after the cyclone season was officially over. Since it would be rash to depart when cyclones were circling our destinations, everyone was stuck. Too bad I didn’t get a photo of all the sailors in the internet room every day, wringing their hands over the forecasts and tangling with New Zealand Immigration over unexpected visa expirations--us included.
(At least the local marine businesses were happy; people bought additional stuff because they finally had time to get around to their B-list projects!)

By the time we left NZ, it was the equivalent of late November in Seattle—and boy was it cold! Photo above includes 2 pairs of socks, 2 pairs of pants, 2 long sleeved shirts, 2 jackets, a coat, a hat and gloves (and one barely warm mate). After 4 days sailing north we started peeling off layers and by the 6th day we were in shorts; we made landfall in Vanuatu after 8 days, and knew we were back in the tropics!

I’ve previously posted plenty of blue water photos, so this post will talk about time. As in…


PASSING TIME

We keep ourselves on a short tether
(falling off the boat is an absolute no-no!)
Good morning! Flying fish for breakfast?

With 1 person always on watch, we never get to sleep very long at one stretch, so much of our time off watch during the day is spent resting and conserving energy. Only 1 of us can lie down at a time and the liferaft needs to be readily available on passage, so the raft shares half the bed.


Our first offshore passage taught us that food slides off plates no matter how well balanced our bodies are (a table is out of the question). Meals are served in curved, easy-to-hold dishes.
Oops! I forgot to take a shot of juggling food on a voyage.
So here's the dish; I'll swap for a real photo later...



NIGHT WATCH

Our view at night: the instrument panel
(In order to maintain night vision, all extraneous lights are off; the rest, inside and out, have red hues.)

The reflection is from the hatch cover, which we keep closed so large waves rolling over the deck don’t pour down the companionway. (Does that sound like the voice of experience?)

Pictured, left to right:

AIS (Automated Identification System), the only device that doesn’t have a red light setting—but we keep it very dim so it’s not intrusive. It is showing our current GPS position, but its prime purpose is collision avoidance, letting us know whether or not there is another vessel within a 48 nautical mile radius. As (almost) always, it says “No Targets”; we are alone out here.



Time of day, set in UTC (Universal Time Coordinated, formerly known as GMT/Greenwich Mean Time)


Wind speed and angle—information we watch the most, to be sure our sails are set for maximum safety and efficiency


Course/Heading—our wind steering system keeps the sails at the desired angle to the wind, an angle we have set to take us on our course. If the course changes, we know the wind has shifted and we evaluate options for sail adjustments.


Not visible:

On the far right of the instrument panel is the chartplotter, which we keep on standby to conserve energy. When activated, it could look like this:
(it has a red light setting also, but that didn't photograph well)
Following an exact route is often necessary near land, but is less relevant in the middle of the ocean on a long passage when weather circumstances will inevitably change. In this example we are intentionally about 15 miles east of the rhumb line to our destination—but strong easterly winds are approaching in a day or so, which will gradually ease us back to the direct course.



Not pictured:

Stars.
Billions and billions of stars.

On clear nights they are our friends, keeping us company, traveling as we do. On my first dark watch, Orion lay lazily on the western horizon, Scorpio was in the east, the Southern Cross was overhead. On my second dark watch 3 hours later, Orion had gone to bed, Scorpio ruled the center of the sky, and the Southern Cross—still pointing south—had rotated down and away. Rising and setting planets, rising and setting moons; the night sky is a treasure for all voyagers.



So that’s a passage:
eat, sleep, chat, rest, handle sails, watch...and LANDFALL!