Being captivated by
Tanna last October was one of the main reasons we wanted to return to
Vanuatu and spend more time in this fascinating country. Unlike
Aneityum, Tanna’s villages are almost completely undeveloped. There
is no electricity, all homes are thatched, and all boats are dugout
canoes. Our strongest memories of Tanna will be men in canoes,
constantly plying the bay for fish; steam vents, associated with the
active volcano very nearby; and best of all, the overtly friendly
people.
Many photos of the
village and the volcano are in a blog post from October 2016, but I
can’t resist adding more images…
Tom, pictured above,
rowed up not long after we anchored and asked if we could charge his
cell phone. Cell phone?! There’s not any service here! It turns out
that several people have phones, which they use for taking pictures
and movies. (They can call friends and relatives if they take a long
and very bumpy truck ride across the island to Lenakel, Tanna’s
main town.)
Trading is the norm in Vanuatu, though we were more than happy to charge his phone for nothing. Tom traded two of his mackerel for the service. Made for a tasty dinner! |
This steam vent along the water's edge is used for cooking--there are plantains and cassava in the pool-- and laundry. It's so hot that one must be careful not to get burned. |
Papaya trees along the trail to... |
...this large steam vent |
Steam vent with extraneous characters in front |
On the way back from the vent, our guide Willy took us to an area of naturally colored clay... |
...which was, and still is, used as body paint in ceremonies |
She made a delicious
meal from all local ingredients (eggs, vegetables and fruits). With
no electricity, the light was from a solar-powered lamp, which ran
out of juice by the end of the meal. But who needs light to sit
around and chat?
As with our last
visit, we brought our instruments ashore one day and played in the 3
closest villages. This extended family was incredibly enthusiastic,
laughing and clapping rhythms along with our songs.We also learned the
Vanuatu national anthem this year; we start with that, and most
people sing along—often an emotional experience.
What a joy to share music so intimately!
What a joy to share music so intimately!
We shared an instrument as well as music. Art’s arthritis is worsening and he can no longer play our guitar (thank goodness his beautiful ukulele is less stressful for his hands). Guitars are the main instrument in Vanuatu music and one village didn’t have a guitar, so we decided ours should have a new home.
An
extraordinary place! We are already glad we chose to return and
immerse ourselves in Vanuatu’s lands and cultures.
After a short
stop in Port Vila, where the 3 recent blogs can be posted, we will be
island hopping for quite a while. It’s unlikely any of these places
will have internet access, so the next photos may take longer to
appear…