Alaska: Cruising the Inside Passage

After leaving Glacier Bay, we gradually made our way down the Inside Passage (inner coastal waters of Southeast Alaska). We had plenty of time to explore, relishing the beautiful anchorages and almost daily sightings of bears and humpback whales. Our final postcards from Alaska:

The ceremonial house and totem poles in Bartlett Cove, Glacier Bay...

...were created by Kaach Yaas, 
a carver we met later in the village of Hoonah

The secluded anchorage at Ell Cove

Serene reflections

Fog was frequent; this is Red Bluff Bay

Waterfall at Red Bluff Bay

We saw bears at almost every anchorage,
but this unusual one was a special treat

Rain almost every day produces many waterfalls; 
this one is at Warm Springs Bay

Also at Warm Springs Bay was an older but very clean bathhouse,
constantly circulating hot springs water.
Soaking was delightful!

Evening light--10:00 p.m. in Portage Bay

Early morning light--6:00 a.m. in Frederick Sound

The icebergs in Le Conte Bay were as big as houses!

The ice sculptures were stunning

Petersburg has strong historical ties to Norway

Norwegian influences permeate the town

Like most other towns in Southeast Alaska, it's primarily a fishing village;
this is a Trident Seafoods cannery

Though reindeer sausage is local as well!
(we're certain this was not Rudolf)

Speaking of food, 
we didn't catch many fish but did get heaps of Dungeness crab

Crab with lemon butter, crab cakes, crab fettucini, crab omelettes, crab spreads...

There are over 40 ancient rock carvings at Wrangell's Petroglyph Beach

We were completely isolated in almost every anchorage.
At this one, we found lots of wild blueberries on shore and made yummy pancakes.

The Anan Bay Bear Observatory was a highlight of our trip.
In amazingly close proximity, we were able to watch bears fish, 

catch,

and eat salmon

Metlakatla is an actively self-governed Tsimshian community
and the only Indian Reserve in Alaska.

Culture is a high priority.
This is their newest totem pole, next to a new set of rock carvings.

Concerned about the price of meat due to the pandemic,
this fisherman decided to help his community by giving away salmon at the dock.

Goodbye, Alaska!

Alaska: Glacier Bay

We spent almost two weeks in Glacier Bay, a wonderland of ice and fiords and wildlife. 

With no parade of cruise ships this year, we were usually alone as we explored one of the planet's most extraordinary places, enhancing its feeling of magic. (We weren't always by ourselves; many thanks to Marlene Reasoner of  SV Trance, who took the photo above.)

This post contains more images than usual, but we felt so overwhelmed by the surroundings that we couldn't resist trying to preserve the experience...

                                                                    Blue Mouse Cove

Johns Hopkins Inlet

Lamplugh Glacier

Navigating through bergy bits the first time

Johns Hopkins Glacier

Floes near the glacier were littered with seals

Topeka Glacier, largely receded

Reid Inlet

The only place where one can anchor overnight near a glacier...



...and actually walk on one

John Muir Inlet

From the anchorage at Goose Cove,

we drove to upper John Muir Inlet

Riggs Glacier, also greatly receded

40 years ago the John Muir Glacier reached the sea,
and the inlet was clogged with ice 

Glacier ice...

...put to good use:
gin & tonics at latitude 59 N

                                                                            Tarr Inlet

Margerie Glacier

Context: the glacier face is several stories high;

it's the same glacier as the opening photo