Side Trip: Manzanillo and Tenacatita

Since most of our remaining projects could be done at anchor, we decided to take a side trip and explore some appealing bays south of La Cruz. Might as well have a different view from the cockpit for a while, and see some new sights when we're not working!

Proving yet again it's a small world, we met up in La Cruz with Chris Martin, one of our crew on our return trip from Kauai. He happened to be nearby and contacted us when he saw our location on the blog; we ended up taking him along on our side trip! It was fun to relive memories from that voyage and create new ones.

Manzanillo Bay

Manzanillo was also a study in contrasts, this time across a bay.  The town of Manzanillo is the busiest commercial port in Pacific Mexico, with lots of freighters and infrastructure to support them. We were the only gringos in sight as we strolled the waterfront area, enjoyed a tasty and inexpensive lunch, and (as always) visited the festive municipal market for produce.

The most protected anchorage was on the other side of Bahia Manzanillo, at the foot of ritzy resorts and sweeping villas. At least the 200 peso fee we had to pay to leave our dinghy at Las Hadas Marina's dock (La Cruz Marina charged 40 pesos for that service) allowed us to use their huge pool, which we definitely enjoyed; it was hot there!

Tiny me in front of this monument to sailfish
helps put its enormous size in perspective

Manzanillo is built right up into the surrounding hills,
so side streets have steep stairways
leading to dwellings at the higher levels

Las Hadas Resort, Manzanillo Bay
(photo by Chris)

From the hills above Las Hadas,
Second Wind can be seen through a notch in the rooftop

Pool at Las Hadas Resort

Tenacatita Bay

Working our way back up to Banderas Bay, the next stop was Tenacatita--the main place I wanted to visit on this side trip. Why? Crocodiles!

It turns out the only crocs we saw on the "jungle river dinghy trip" were on our feet, but the ride was every bit as fun as I'd hoped. We paddled and waded the dinghy over a sand bar into a tidal stream tightly enclosed by mangroves, then slowly motored a long way into a world of exposed tree roots and thick green leaves. Along the way we passed many species of large birds, plenty of leaping fish and darting butterflies. Floating a river always makes me happy, and this excursion was especially memorable.

The next day we anchored in front of the sweetest town we have visited, La Manzanilla (not to be confused with Manzanillo--a little apple--La Manzanilla refers to the chamomile flower). The whole place is colorful: a kaleidoscope of umbrellas at casual restaurants lining the beach, homes and buildings painted vibrant hues, green palms and bright flowers in abundance. The central plaza was strikingly modern and well-kept, and there appeared to be a healthy balance of tourists and locals--and no exaggeration, it seemed like everyone was smiling! (One favorite 'slice of life' scene: when school let out, moms piled kids on motorbike seats in front and behind them--and if there were more than two kids, an older one in front would steer. Kids here are given a great deal of autonomy, and they handle it well.) We enjoyed fresh fish for lunch on the beach, paletas (frozen fruit popsicles, the best 10 pesos/75 cents I've ever spent), and--drum roll--CROCODILES!

In a lagoon at the end of town, crocodiles in their natural habitat have been fenced in, with a boardwalk built around the edge so visitors can get very close. Usually still as statues, the enormous reptiles could snap instantly at a fish--or each other. Watching those powerful and primitive creatures was fascinating (and the best 15 pesos I've ever spent).

Day Three took us to Aquarium Reef, in yet another part of Bahia Tenacatita. Though it didn't quite live up to its name--large swell and some breaking waves impacted visibility and it wasn't particularly colorful--we did get to see a variety of fish and urchins. And any day snorkeling is a good day!

When I first heard cruisers say they were headed to Tenacatita for a month, I wondered how they could spend so long in one place--but now we know. We needed to head back to Banderas Bay, but would love to have lingered here. In addition to the interesting places and activities, it's the kind of anchorage we most enjoy: very little development, hills and trees nearby, long empty beaches, dolphins & seabirds & fish constantly around the boat.

The workers

The happy floater

What started like this...

...soon became this!

La Manzanilla 

Pangas and restaurants on the beach

La Manzanilla's unique central plaza;
the gazebo is elaborately decorated with sculptures of sea life,
and its roof resembles a shell

Enjoying paletas
(photo by Chris)

Small stores cater to every need:
eggs (inside, unrefridgerated), flip-flops,
brooms (ubiquitous), beach toys

We could get as close as a few feet away from the crocodiles

The sign says CAREFUL:  No Swimming! (editor's note: no kidding!!)
Also don't feed the crocodiles, don't let your pet wander, don't fish
(photo by Chris)

This guy looks fake, but he's definitely real