Second Wind Voyage: SS: Huahine and Tahaa

HUAHINE

Eager to rendezvous with Jan Lippen-Holtz and David Ingalls, long-time friends from Ashland who completed a similar voyage three decades ago, we bashed across 80 nautical miles to the Societies' Leeward Isles. We met them in Huahine, a laid-back island off the tourist track. Highlights there were visiting an extensive marae, seeing the sacred eels (about the size of my leg, with--no exaggeration--blue eyes!), and witnessing two events associated with the local Heiva festival. The spear throwing contest involved impaling a coconut attached to a high pole. In the copra contest, 3-person teams raced to split and husk a pile of coconuts; one person wielded a large axe on the shells, then the other two gouged out the coconut meat with specialized tools. These were real-life skills and the teams on Huahine were from nearby villages. As some of the few outsiders, we felt privileged to be part of a "Norman Rockwell" community event, Polynesian style.

Many of the photos from Huahine, Tahaa and Bora Bora were taken by Jan or David. Thanks to both of them for sharing...

A daily ritual: morning coffee hour

Another daily ritual: happy hour!

What to buy in French Polynesia: baguettes!
(subsidized, these cost about 50 cents apiece)

What not to buy in French Polynesia: booze!
(heavily taxed, these bottles cost $69.90, $180.50 and $48.90 in US dollars)

A great way to pass the time

One of many in the area, this marae was used for ceremonies hundreds of years ago

These fish traps from the same time period are still in use today

We didn't find out why these eels were considered sacred,
but surely the size and eyes were factors

All events were done by women as well as men;
many of these women hit the coconut (hidden in the fronds) with their spears

This closeup shows both the spears and the man's tattoo

Overview of the copra contest:
piles of coconuts, a split husk spilling its liquid, people on the periphery rooting for their
home (village) teams

Closeup of gouging out the coconut shell from the husk

TAHAA

Tahaa and Raiatea are two separate islands that share the same encircling reef. On this trip we just visited Tahaa, known as the Vanilla Island; almost all of the Tahitian vanilla exports are grown here. We followed a muddy track inland and met a lovely young woman, half French and half Tahitian, who showed us her family's vanilla farm; we also did a little snorkeling, in spite of less than ideal weather.

Rows of vanilla plants, and their admirers

A view of Bora Bora from Tahaa, about 20 miles away

Small fishing boats raised out of the water

Surely there's a pot of gold in those trees...

All the island capitals hold Heiva festivities, with Bastille Day--a French holiday in French Polynesia, so it's a national day off--as a central date for emphatically Polynesian activities. We arranged to be at Patio (Tahaa's capital, a village of 300 people) on July 14, where we got to see another coconut husking competition--men's teams this time, and even more enthusiastic crowd support. But our favorites were the children's dance groups! Kid from toddlers to teens had the same moves as the adult troupes--not nearly as polished, but just as appealing. It was quite the island party; after the dances, outdoor tables overflowing with food were open to everyone. We were about the only Westerners in sight and were welcomed into the revelry with big smiles. What we had missed on Tahaa in terms of blue skies and swimming was more than made up for by the unique and rich cultural experiences.