Second Wind Voyage: FIJI: Racing Across Fiji

By the time the weather broke, it was time to get the boat to the west side of Viti Levu, Fiji's main island. We need to be well south of here by the start of cyclone season, so we'll complete our passage preparations near Lautoka (convenient provisioning and chandlery), then leave at the first open weather window near the end of October.

Fiji is full of reefs, and navigation is extremely tricky. Charts are incomplete and in some cases inaccurate; even with electronic navigation systems and GPS waypoints, boats hit reefs (more scrapes than collisions, though there are some of each!). Travel must be in good light, keeping daily distances short. That could have meant 'explore ashore time' at the end of each day, but anchorages on the route we had to take were primarily functional: safe--and often pretty--but lacking shore attractions like beaches or hikes.

The camera kept clicking, though! Some sights from our "motel anchorages":

Sunset at Wainunu Bay

Since it's near the end of the safe cruising season,
we had the immense and tranquil Mbua Bay all to ourselves

Yandua Island was our favorite stop on this route, since it had the only village
we were able to visit.

In Fiji, islands and their surrounding reefs and waters are owned by the people (not the king, as in Tonga). Custom dictates that guests bring an offering of yaqona (kava root) to the village chief, who gives his permission for visitors to stay, swim, hike, take photos, etc. The asking and receiving of permission is highly ritualized, and can involve making and drinking kava in an elaborate ceremony. We didn't get the ceremony, but village headman Ben helped us complete the formalities with Chief Johnny (who later visited our boat for a cold drink).

It turned out to be the most delightful village experience we've had anywhere, with enthusiastic 'Bula!'s (Hellos) greeting us from all the homes. People were eager to introduce themselves and find out about us: name, age, origin (word spread fast that we were from 'America'!), how long it took to get here from there, where we were last, etc. There was no sense of wanting anything from us other than friendship--though the small candies we'd brought for the children soon attracted a crowd of adults as well. (We always bring a few staples too, but have learned that treats are more fun for everyone!) That day will always stand out in our memories...

All homes were close to this narrow cement sidewalk, had laundry hanging outside and large woven mats
covering the floors inside. Even the traditional thatched bures had solar panels!

Closeup of a bure

Boy on the beach

Kids in the new part of the village--
corrugated metal homes that replaced bures destroyed by a hurricane

Me: "You have such beautiful eyes!"
Her: "I like your tattoo."
Me: "It's a picture of Harmony; it means we are all connected to each other."
Her: a great big smile...

The west anchorage was a
magical place:
beaches, snorkeling reefs,
sunset views.
Ah, to have been able to stay
for a few days!
But even one was a gift...

This is not an anchorage, but it's not just ocean, either. It's between Fiji's two main islands and is called Bligh Water--named after the captain of the Bounty. In 1789, he and his loyal crew of 18 men, after being dumped by mutineers in Tonga, rowed for their lives across this water to escape cannibals. Not only did they avoid a gruesome fate, Bligh completed one of the most remarkable feats of navigation in maritime history, guiding the small open boat over 3600 miles to a safe landfall in Indonesia.

These aren't anchorages either, but sights along the north coast of Viti Levu:

This area looked much drier than we expected.
To our surprise and delight, the contours and the vegetation actually looked very much like
the hills around Ashland.