FIJI: Island Hopping

Full moon setting at dawn, taken while on an overnight passage between islands

RABI

Of all the islands we visited on the long route from NE to SW Fiji, this was the only place we had stopped previously. There is still just one family living in lovely Albert Cove, but it is a different family than we met two years ago.

High in the top of this coconut tree

is Jim, whacking drinking coconuts down for us

then husking them on a stick

Rabi residents are indigenous Banabans, not Fijians (see the Fiji: Rabi Island post from September 2016). Their homes are of a different style, both outside and inside, from Fijian homes.

It was also a treat there to run into John and Wendy of  S/V Midnight Sun, friends from Riverside Drive Marina in Whangarei. RDM has sure created a web of special bonds!

TAVEUNI

This time when local residents said “Welcome to Paradise,” they meant it literally.

Paradise Resort has a decent anchorage and welcomes boaties, so we followed other cruisers’ recommendations and stopped there. It was right on our route and provided a different type of experience for us; use of the pool in exchange for a couple of happy hour beers was a fun trade.

What? No salt in that water?!

There is no market nearby but the resort will sell produce from their organic garden. 

Staff member Terri took us there, pointing out unique flora and fauna along the way. 

This is a huge ant colony; as a young girl she would break off a chunk from a similar hive

 and bring it home—covered with ants—to feed to her family’s chickens.

GAU

When we arrived to present our sevusevu to the village chief, he was listening to BBC radio—one of the most astute and articulate men we have encountered.

No photo of that remarkable man, but here are Itu and Serau.

We went ashore to chat with them
and ended up sharing our lunch and swapping many enjoyable stories.

ASTROLABE REEF

This area is a major attraction for divers visiting Fiji. We found marvelous snorkeling—and other pleasures as well.

A windy hike to the top of an island

Kava crop planted on a steep hillside

Art going local: knocking coconuts out of a tree,

whacking off the husk with his machete,

and ending up with
two nice drinking coconuts!

BEQA LAGOON

Though it was a bit windy and cool to swim when we were at Yanuca Island, our visit to the village was very enjoyable.

Village spokesman Weis showing Art their solar-powered watermaker.
 It was an ingenious and effective way to turn saltwater into fresh on that dry island.

LIKURI HARBOR, otherwise known as ROBINSON CRUSOE ISLAND

Another stop made at the recommendation of cruising friends, all of whom reported not only a safe and convenient anchorage, but the best fire show anywhere. We managed to time our arrival to coincide with our 44^th anniversary—and it was indeed a fabulous night!

MALOLO LAILAI, otherwise known as MUSKET COVE

We prefer out-of-the way places to crowded anchorages, so it took us 3 seasons in Fiji to finally go to Musket Cove—a mecca for cruising yachties wanting to hang out with other yachties at a beach bar. We didn't hang out out the bar, but we did pay the nominal fee to become lifetime members #19,426 and #19,427 of the legendary Musket Cove Yacht Club; woohoo!

Now we are anchored near the Nadi airport, repairing post-ferry collision damage and preparing the boat for Camden’s upcoming visit. The next blog post will be from a new perspective, as we view South Pacific islands and an ocean passage with his first-timer eyes!