Fiji: Vanua Levu

Unfortunately I couldn't get the image to rotate properly;
it should be rotated clockwise, with the top edge
on the right side (imagine this, or lean hard to the left!)

Sketch of Fiji superimposed on cyclone Winston, the strongest tropical cyclone to make landfall in  Fiji and the South Pacific Basin in recorded history. The photo covers an area 660 nautical miles wide (west to east) and 480 n.m. north to south--a huge beast!

We checked into Fiji at Savusavu, on the large island of Vanua Levu (near center of photo). The eye of the storm had passed over that area, and its aftermath dominated much of our stay. Winston had sustained winds of 145 mph and gusts reaching 190 mph.  The death toll was surprisingly low, but the physical devastation was extreme, and the emotional toll was high as well. Five months later, everyone wanted to tell their stores of damage and survival.

Nukubalavu

Basic needs have been met by a variety of organizations. Before leaving New Zealand we emailed Jolene--the manager of Waitui Marina in Savusavu that we befriended last year--

about how we could help, and she suggested we bring children's books for a nearby village that had lost almost everything. We purchased quite a few and gathered some from other cruisers, and had a very meaningful day taking a bus from Savusavu to Nukubalavu to deliver them.  

Cyclone debris stacked in piles

Most homes were destroyed

Some debris can be re-used--
and some toilets have been rebuilt
(this version is standard in Fiji villages)

The hut for this lali, or ceremonial drum,
can be seen in the center of the photo at left.
All villages have lali; it calls people 
to church and meetings, and is pictured on one of the Fijian coins

After we delivered the books, Art gave candies to the kindies

As the village guests, we were served tea:
lemon leaves in hot water (surprisingly delicious),
with sugar and the ubiquitous "breakfast crackers"--
seated on a mat on the floor, as always

Our host, the head man's wife, weaving a mat 

Savusavu

We greatly enjoyed returning to Savusavu, where we spent 2 weeks last October; there is something special about feeling comfortably familiar with a place so far from home. Savusavu was a necessary stop for Customs and for provisioning after the passage from Tonga, but we also wanted to reconnect with Jolene and her family.

Jolene convinced me last year to present a little recital on their premises; this year I planned ahead and prepared a short program, complete with ukulele accompaniment. Yes indeed, Art practiced a great deal too, learned and adapted  some chords and bass lines, and we came up with some nice duets! Complete with platters of finger food, wine and beer, it was a fun cruiser's night out for everyone.

Other Savusavu scenes:

Lovely Savusavu harbor

Looking the other direction;
Second Wind is near the center of the photo,
and the remnants of Waitui Marina's dock--destroyed by Winston--are in the foreground

A typical open-air bus 

Shops in Savusavu have living quarters over the store

Fish in lolo, the most common Fijian dish:
whole chunks of fish in coconut milk, with boiled greens and cassava root.
It's often eaten with fingers, no utensils,
so even the smallest restaurants have tiny sinks in the corner to wash hands after eating

We purchased our bundles of kava root, required for sevusevu gifts to village chiefs,
from this woman in the market

This sign was in the Customs building, but no one was in that particular office.
Too bad! We would love to have registered to be Jedis! 

Cousteau Resort

Our first anchorage after Savusavu was at the nearby Cousteau Resort. Winston had blown most of it away so it was closed for reconstruction--but in the meantime we could tie our dinghy to the one remaining mooring buoy and snorkel at their prolific reef.

Dakuniba

Dakuniba was our last stop on the large island of Vanua Levu--just an overnight, but a lovely one. We passed through a reef and tucked deep into a mangrove-lined cove; it was the most still and silent anchorage we've had in years. Flying foxes (fruit bats) filling the sky at dusk were a special treat.

Narrow entrance to a perfectly placid cove

Mangrove reflection in the early morning