Vanuatu: Tanna Island

AWESOME!!!

Since we'd lost almost a month waiting for a part and then for weather, we considered skipping Vanuatu. The chance to get to the edge of one of the world's most accessible active volcanoes reeled us in, though--and we were glad it did!

"Is this really a good idea?"
We couldn't help but wonder, approaching Tanna Island
and watching the volcano belch smoke and steam

Anchored in a nearby bay,
we could watch spontaneous steam vents
and geysers erupt...

...and both see & hear explosions from our boat

Mt. Yasur is considered a spiritual place, and visitors are welcomed by a ceremony that includes asking for and being granted permission to ascend.

This beautiful woman placed leis on every visitor...

...followed by traditional dancing and singing

After being packed into 4WD trucks and jostling almost to the rim, we hiked the rest of the way to the top and sat near the edge as the sun set and Yasur's eruptions became increasingly brilliant in the growing darkness. Spectacular explosions, deafening roars, rumbling earth--sight, sound, sensation: a peak experience in every way.

The other main reason to explore Vanuatu is its array of fascinating cultural customs. One of these is the John Frum movement, of which Tanna is the focal point. After seeing large quantities of cargo accompanied by black American soldiers in WWII, a 'cargo cult' formed that believed  John "From" America would return and bring material wealth to his followers. During the day multiple American flags fly in the main John Frum village, but we visited on a Friday night so we could attend the weekly religious ceremony. Devotions consisted of rotating clusters of worshippers--men in the center with guitars, women around the periphery clapping--singing songs about God. It was more subdued than we expected, but with some people wearing grass skirts swaying on the sidelines and the volcano frequently rumbling nearby, it was suitably intriguing.

(not a good photo, but a flash would have been inappropriate)

A day in Ireupuow, the village nearest the anchorage, proved to be especially meaningful. The village was a loose association of several smaller enclaves; all the homes were of woven bamboo and coconut fronds, and none had electricity.

Carved fern tree figure

Miriam, our guide, earns $10 US/month
as a kindergarten teacher, yet her daughter's
middle school education costs $370 US/year.
To make up the difference, she relies on
contributions from her relatives and other villagers.

Tanna coffee is famous in Vanuatu;
even a tea gal like me thought it was delicions

Inside the coffee house

Everyone loves music, and sharing ours along the way has been great fun. We played in each enclave in Ireupuow, and the interaction was charming: people laughed and talked and clapped whenever they saw or heard something they particularly liked (similar to a jazz performance, but more exuberant). In all of our hundreds of  professional concerts, nothing has ever felt more joyful than their overt enthusiasm!

A few lingering listeners, many of whom brought us fresh papaya as we were leaving

Another pleasure was watching people ply the small bay in their dugout canoes. There was always someone paddling somewhere,

either men fishing

or children coming by to trade vegetables for treats.

From the magnificent volcano to the welcoming villagers, Tanna was a better stop than we could have imagined...

Sailing past Yasur on our way to the next island