VANUATU: Ambrym

Ambrym, island of magic...

Actually, most of this country seems to possess magic, but with two active volcanoes turning the skies orange and the sands black, Ambrym is the epicenter of magic in Vanuatu.

We timed our arrival to attend the Fanla Festival, an occasion where the famous Rom Dance is performed not for tourists—though we were expected and welcomed—but for their own annual “grade taking” (status) ceremony. And what a spectacle it was! In amazing masks and costumes, ritual dancing gradually incorporated the younger men who had purchased their way into the ranks with cash and pigs.

The first day of the festival included several dances, sand drawing, string games, weaving, magic tricks, and displays of beautiful carvings:

Throughout the day, Paramount Chief Tofor--Chief of Chiefs on Ambrym--radiated wisdom and contentment...

We weren’t necessarily wise, but we were content! Lunch was root vegetables cooked in coconut milk, pawpaw (papaya) and pamplemousse, and fresh coconut water to drink

The day’s final activity was the unveiling of the Rom masks. Each mask has distinct colors and designs, which are unchanged from one generation to the next.

The lengthy Rom Dance comprised most of the second day:

Throngs of Ambrym residents, from Fanla and surrounding villages, came to observe the ceremony. This long view shows the older men “sorting” the costumed younger ones coming up the ranks, with many local men watching on the far side.

After the dance, the men who purchased the masks—or specifically, purchased the right to wear those particular colors and designs, some of which are worth far more than others—made their payments to the Chief. Piles of large yams and other vegetables are at their feet; cash was given directly to the chief in everyone's presence. (I did not include a picture of the pigs they offered, which were disposed of on the spot.)

At closing, the dancers—most of them back in their regular t-shirts and shorts—invited all of us to dance together (including tourist women; it is tabu for local women to dance in this way). Not to sound too New Age, but the joining of all witnesses in close proximity, sharing the beat of drums and the pounding of feet for a length of time, was quite moving: a fitting end to an extraordinary experience.

Another major activity on Ambrym Island was our decision to join with three other cruising couples and hire a guide to take us to the top of Mt. Marum, one of the world’s most active volcanoes. It was a strenuous trek, made increasingly challenging by clouds and rain that moved in. Unfortunately those conditions prevented us from seeing the lava lake at the bottom of the crater, but spending the night near the top of an active volcano was a tremendous escapade.

The trail went first through the jungle,

then across the ash plain
(we improvised a backpack from one of our duffel bags)

Everyone who approaches the volcano--locals included--
must cast a cane spear onto the ash plain to ensure their safety

Near the top, wild cane had overgrown the coarse rubble
(deteriorating weather prevented any other photos from that point on)

The sleeping hut only held 4 people, so the other 4 of us ended up in small tents that were not at all waterproof. No one had a comfortable night, but it sure was an adventure!

Guides Robert and John were only 16 years old! But they knew all the paths, even in total darkness, and cared for us very well. OSHA would have been horrified, but we knew we were in good hands.

At our final stop on volcanic Ambrym, we anchored near a river that had formed a huge hot pool—a gigantic natural spa. Soaking in a hot bath of fresh water, doing laundry, soaking some more: aaaahhhhhhh….

Often at night the sky would glow over the volcanoes. What a sight while anchored at Ambrym!

Magic indeed.