VANUATU CODA: Epi and Efate

Lamen Bay on Epi Island served as a one-night stopover on our way north two months ago, but we returned to spend a couple of days there on our way back to Port Vila. It’s a spot well known for its resident turtle population and frequent visits by a dugong.

Sure enough, the turtles were easy to find—and they were unafraid, munching leisurely on sea grass as we floated above them. There was also some first-rate snorkeling, with attractive coral formations and a huge array of colorful fish very near our boat.

Unfortunately, our timing was poor for the dugong. While we were there, one patrol boat and four cargo ships came in and out of the bay, the cargo ships’ activities amplified by the large number of small boats speeding back and forth with supplies. Things finally quieted down the afternoon we left and the dugong returned, but no matter how far we swam, it was a wild dugong chase; we got to see a face and flippers from a distance, but didn’t get to float over him. Though we could probably have been successful the next day, a change in the weather meant we had to head south while we had a chance.

Ah well, it was worth a try!

I would have preferred a photo of a dugong in this space,
but the cargo ships are pretty interesting too!

So we are now near the end of our long loop around Vanuatu’s many islands, having arrived back at Efate Island. Before going into Port Vila, we spent a few final days in nearby Havannah Harbor, catching up on some maintenance in peaceful anchorages there.

Our final instrumental interlude included a special treat: the village at our last anchorage was very musical. They had a washtub bass (large plastic tub outfitted with a stick and a cord) and a small ukulele; people took turns playing those instruments, and when they weren’t playing, they were improvising clapped rhythms and singing their hearts out. We played for each other, and jammed together in our style and theirs.  What a fun finale!

Then, a truly Grand Finale. We made reservations at a beach restaurant very near Second Wind in Port Vila to celebrate our 43^rd anniversary, noticing they made a note of the special occasion. When we arrived, they had set up a beautiful table just for us—a lovely gesture. But we were astounded when they seated us in the middle of the evening’s entertainment, a spectacular fire show! It was a celebration beyond anything we could have imagined, and a sensational way to bring our adventures in this phenomenal country to a close.

How to leave Vanuatu? How to say goodbye to a country so full of gorgeous places, exciting activities, and fascinating customs? 

More than anything, we will miss the people. Ten years ago a United Nations study proclaimed the ni-Vans are the happiest people in the world—and that must still be true. We received the warmest welcomes possible and made friends everywhere we went; the closeness felt extraordinary.

Magic lives on in Vanuatu!