Isla Isabela

Our next stop on the mainland side was Isla Isabela National Park. What a highlight! 

The anchorage is exposed to large swells and full of anchor-snagging rocks, and it's "just birds", so most people pass it by--but it is an astounding place! (A mini-Galapagos, without all the tourists.) It's home to a frigate colony, one of the few that exist in the Pacific basin. With a wingspan of 7', the birds are graceful gliders  with notably jagged silhouettes in the sky. We were incredibly lucky to visit at mating season, when the males inflate their red neck sacks and thump them with their bills to attract females; the result is a loud knocking sound, similar to woodpeckers. The short nesting trees are full--FULL--of the huge birds.

And the boobies! Blue-footed boobies were all over as well. They were at egg-laying stage, but they don't build nests; they just lay their eggs on the ground (sand, underbrush, rocks; apparently they aren't picky). Their beady eyes and  bright blue feet were mesmerizing, and it was charming to see the mated pairs touching beaks together.

Last but not least, there were quite a few iguanas. The many small species of lizards would skitter away, but as the alpha reptiles, the iguanas were fearless. When I was watching some boobies, one of them even came up and licked my toe! 

The island is very small and we were the only ones on the trail; we had the entire wondrous ecosystem to ourselves. Back at the boat, humpbacks were regularly in view: too far away to photograph, but close enough to be a near-constant entertainment. It was a magnificent world, and we felt awed and privileged to have experienced it.

Birds were overhead all the time

A male frigate with neck sack inflated

Frigates nesting in the short trees

Only one fluffy white chick (literally the early bird?)

A mated pair of blue-footed boobies

Can you see those beady eyes?

Note the beak nuzzling (and one boobie has its foot raised--a common behavior--so it looks like they are dancing!)

Caring for the eggs (just on the ground, not in a nest)

Boobies everywhere! (no comments, please)

An iguana checking out our lunch