Tuesday, February 24, 2015

Mazatlan

In making our way from La Paz to Puerto Vallarta, we debated whether or not to visit Mazatlan, and were glad we did. It was time for a marina stop anyway--some projects required internet access and/or more extensive use of the AC power that docks provide--and Marina Mazatlan served our needs well for a few days. (As one of the sailors there said, "Cruising is just going to the next location to work on your boat.")

I had the easy job: hours online researching requirements and downloading entry forms for the next 5 countries. Art had the poop job, literally (if you're so inclined, you may replace 'poop' with a more emphatic four-letter word). The plumbing in the forward head has never worked well; with more people coming aboard who need to use it and the desire to finally rid the boat of a lingering odor, it was time to re-plumb the entire mess. Mercifully, I didn't take pictures of the carnage, but I will say removing lots of convoluted hoses full of ancient clogged you-know-what was as disgusting as you can possibly imagine. (Hint: Art turned his first set of work clothes into rags and worked in his skivvies the rest of the time.) Now the plumbing is all new and greatly simplified, and the aroma (ahem) is abating; the final step--installing a macerator pump--will wait for the next marina.

We did spend a full day exploring Mazatlan, and we found it to be very enjoyable. We weren't interested in the Zona Dorada (Gold Zone, a long stretch of nice hotels and restaurants along the fantastic Pacific beaches). Instead, we used their excellent bus system and headed downtown. We checked out their huge municipal market, which offered anything one could want (yes! I finally found a tortilla press, so I can make corn tortillas on the boat!). The central plaza was well-kept and had a jungle atmosphere: huge trees, coconut palms, bright flowers, melodious bird songs. Across the street was the cathedral, and it was magnificent. Even just standing respectfully at the entrance, we were moved by the palpable devotion of the people who entered for private worship (noting that most of them were primarily drawn to the shrine of Mary).

Along the seaside stretched a long malecon (wide strolling sidewalk) with several impressive monuments and hourly feats of daring by cliff divers. Through fortunate coincidence, we were in town for the First Friday Art Walk (many cities have these; Mazatlan does feel like a real city). We spent hours admiring the niche galleries, many of which had inner courtyards full of plants with huge leaves and thick vines (their own interior jungle!). The Central Historic District has block after block of beautiful 1840's buildings, housing those galleries as well as esoteric bars and small elegant restaurants.


Our best time in Mazatlan was coming across the Cultural Institute. Kids were entering the building with violin & cello cases (a heartwarming sight for an orchestra teacher!)--but what stopped us in our tracks were a few notes of Brahms. A professional group was rehearsing the Horn Trio; we glued ourselves to the grated window to listen, deeply moved by the sound of our favorite language...
Central Plaza

Historic District

Inside the cathedral

Cathedral

A monument along the malecon
Municipal market
Preparing for Carnaval (a very big deal here!)



Why on earth is this man smiling?! Surely playing with filthy hoses can't be as fun as it looks!
(and sorry, I couldn't get this one to load correctly...)

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